It definitely can be done. That’s why it's important to have a safe and secure place where you can kennel your puppy throughout the day.
If you have the ability to go home and check on them over lunch, even better. That's better for them, but that's basically what it takes. Give them the chance to use the bathroom just before you leave, put them in their proper bedding with things they can't chew up, destroy, choke on, etc. Try to check on them once if not twice during the day to let them out, clean up, and just to make sure they're not getting themselves into anything that they shouldn't

Think about what a dog could get into. You’ve got to think of it from that aspect and perspective, like the viewpoint from being a couple of inches off the ground like that of a young puppy. They're going to see what's in front of them. They're going to find food on the floor. They're going to find trash cans that they can reach up and knock over. They're going to find anything they can get their mouth on and try to chew it. So you might want to invest in a nice kennel or crate—some place that you can put them in. And not as punishment, but let that be their normal domicile when you're not there. So at night, when you have company over, when you're not home directly supervising, the kennel should be a good and comfortable place for them to go.
You might also want to consider depending on where you live and how it's laid out, maybe some baby gates that will prevent them from going to various areas of the house. Those are probably the most basic common sense things I would think that you would need to do first.

When I'm choosing a puppy, I like to see a vibrant, interactive, confident puppy. When you're looking at a litter of puppies, which one comes up to you? In the case of a young six, eight week old puppy, you should be able to bend down, make noise and they want to attack you because they want attention. Take note if there's one kind of hanging out in the corner and just like real sheepish and shy or submissive or won't come to you, or God forbid if he's already showing you his teeth or just growling and unsure. I get that you're a stranger, but a puppy shouldn't be responding to you that way. So that makes a big difference and the flip side of that is what I was alluding to.
I like a dog that's very confident and outgoing. I want one inquisitive, who's going to come check me out—one that’s friendly, not aggressive, but I want one that is also very comfortable in their own skin. So that's what I'm looking for personally...regardless of the breed, that's what I'm looking for.

Well, probably the most important thing is just common sense and knowing it's going to take time. If you want to do this the right way, it's going to take time. It might not be a tone of time, but it's going to take a little bit of devotion and effort every day, to be quite honest. It might only be a few minutes a day, but it will take patience and having the proper setup to prepare for bringing a young, untrained puppy into the household.

It’s not a big deal. You don't want to be months late. Again, keep in mind, guys, we were talking about puppy vaccinations. We're talking about animals that have next to no immune system. So, you want to get them up and running on schedule as best you can.
But if you are late, as I mentioned earlier, a week or even a couple of weeks, I mean, hey, life happens. I get it. But I would make every effort to try to get them back on schedule as soon as you can. What I mean by that is just because you missed a week or two, and don't think, "Oh, that's it." Just pick up where you left off.
Your veterinarian will tell you how often they need to be seen or if and when it needs to be boostered again. But if you do miss them, just call the office, get them back in, and make sure they're protected moving forward.